12th - 18th July
American and English passengers joined the Luciole at a quiet mooring beneath the trees in Coulanges-sur-Yonne. This week we were cruising towards Auxerre.
Will Liley, was also cruising with us this week. He was over from England to take photographs and videos. He was frequently spotted along the canal banks, perched on a bridge, or stationed on high ground, camera in hand, ready to capture the Luciole as she passed.
The Luciole experienced a rare generator breakdown on Monday morning (efficiently repaired by Will and matelot Tom). As an alternative, we arranged a visit to the local quarry at Courson-les-Carrières. Tucked away on the hillside and entered through an almost hidden entrance, the vast cavern, quarried from the limestone rock, was as surprising as it was impressive.
Cycling along the canal bank is always great fun, and Mary did not miss the opportunity to take a bike ride and explore on two wheels. When we returned from our quarry visit, Mary’s husband Dave and their friend Jackie could be found sitting on a nearby bench chatting about the mornings’ happenings. Were they three old friends from school, or the famous "see no evil, hear no evil, speak no evil" monkeys? Either way, the photo opportunity certainly brought plenty of laughter.
On Tuesday, Libby and Penny enjoyed an early morning hot air balloon flight, soaring high above the Burgundian countryside with stunning views across to Vézelay. Below forests and fields stretched to the horizon, glowing golden in the rising summer sun.
The balloon company we flew with, France Montgolfières, was founded in the mid-1980s by a group of young barge captains and crew. Back in the early 1980s, many of the balloon crew had worked aboard the Luciole – although she was called ‘Palinurus’ in those days – they still to this day, enjoy stepping aboard the Luciole to reminisce.
Chef Michael is always inventive in the galley creating his delicious food. Tuesday’s hors d'œuvres was no exception. Meanwhile, in the saloon, hosts Sarah and Poppy enjoyed folding napkins into rabbit ears, ready to perch in the wine glasses – this napkin fold always brings a laugh.
Football has been something of a theme this summer, with the World Cup being hosted by the USA, Canada and Mexico. Wednesday proved disappointing for our English football supporters, with Argentina coming out on top by a single goal. Captain Charlie set up his computer in the saloon after our restaurant evening in Avallon so those wishing to watch the match could do so together.
The match for third place, a few days later proved an exciting spectacle that no one could deny. Fortunately, the Captain and our English passengers were watching in different countries, thereby avoiding any friendly embarrassment!
Thursday found us moored above the lock at Rivotte, beside a newly harvested cornfield and beneath the limestone hills. It is a stretch of canal renowned for its crystal-clear water. Usually, as we cruise along, we look down on the fish and aquatic plants swaying gently in the movement created by the Luciole. With the barge lying perfectly still, the view was remarkable – an underwater world, like an aquarium within the canal itself, both fascinating and mesmerising for us all.
On Friday, we cruised into Auxerre. The crew took it in turns to join the passengers for the Captain's Dinner – always a happy and convivial occasion. After the delicious meal, flowers were gathered from the tables and taken up to the bridge before being cast into the River Yonne, each accompanied by a wish. The sky was dramatic as the sun set behind the Abbey of Saint-Germain. We all wondered whether we would be blessed with rain and, indeed, during the night a gentle shower fell onto the parched grass. Saturday morning brought a fond farewell to our lovely passengers. It certainly was a pleasure to have you all aboard for our memorable week on the Luciole.
Hotel barge Luciole
Cruising since 1976
Phone: 00 44 1625 576880
From USA: 011 44 1625 576880
WhatsApp: 00 33 6 09 92 20 76
Email: info@bargeluciole.com
23 Adlington Road, Bollington
SK10 5JT England
1-2 Quai de la Republique, Auxerre
89000 France
© Hotel Barge Luciole 2026
