13th - 19th September
Early autumn courses through the air – the September light is different from the brighter summer months. It really is a gorgeous time to be cruising. The leaves are on the turn too, although this can partly be put down to the succession of rain-free days this year. Thankfully, on the Nivernais Canal, constantly fed by the River Yonne, water levels are not an issue for the Luciole.
On Tuesday afternoon, there were apéros at Penny’s place in Fontenille. Newlyweds Arthur and Amelia Liley were at home, over in France for a short break, bringing back memories of their wedding in May and, of course, chatting to passengers about their time as hosts aboard the Luciole back in 2016. Time flies.
We had avid bikers aboard for this cruise, keen to make the most of the new Luciole bikes, the smooth towpaths and the calm villages we cruise close to. It is true we had advance warning and, as matelot Tom said, “You weren’t wrong about the bikes this week” – they were certainly used! Kilometres were covered each day, with an easy 25 km being the norm. It certainly proved that a barge cruise does not need to be sedate!
One particular detour took them past the enchanting Château de Sainte-Palaye, where the wild cyclamen are in full bloom – an annual sight the crew always look forward to seeing.
That evening it was restaurant night in Avallon. Tour guide Vincent drove us and this week Captain Charlie came along as well, to enjoy some quiet time in this delightful old town, with its ancient ramparts and origins stretching back to the Gallo-Roman period some two thousand years ago.
The pair of them were waiting beside the friendly stone-carved frog for our return. Perched on a wall opposite the impressive 12th-century Romanesque Church of Saint-Lazare, the sense of history in these quiet streets is all around – as was Bryan Ferry’s music, with ‘Avalon’ playing as we headed for home.
Our visit to Chablis this week was fascinating because it coincided with the ongoing fermentation of the Chardonnay grape juice. The huge inox tanks are split into two sections, and it was pointed out that the lower half was further advanced in fermentation than the upper half. This could actually be seen in the sight tubes filled with juice, which were distinctly different colours.
In the lower tube, the juice was lighter, showing that fermentation was further advanced, while the juice in the upper sight tube was darker. We all marvelled at that!
Down in the old arched cellars, the fermentation process was also in full swing. Timothée, our wine guide, lifted the cork and invited us to listen. Amazingly, we could hear the juice babbling away.
It was an extraordinary experience to bend our heads over, put an ear to the opening of the barrel and listen to the gentle bubbling of nature doing its job.
Back aboard the Luciole, moored on the River Yonne at Vincelles, chef Michael presented his enticing evening dinner. It was greatly enjoyed by everyone, with fresh flavours, delicate colours and the perfect balance of sweet and sour. Simply delicious.
On Friday afternoon, we cruised into Auxerre in the sunshine before a tour of the medieval town, with its enticing shops and cafés. There was time to soak up the atmosphere and sip a glass of wine or half a beer on one of the terraces.
In the evening came the usual clothes packing and, for Oscar, the dismantling of his wonderful bike, which had taken pride of place on the sundeck.
This cruise will definitely be remembered for the biking – for those lost and found, for bike baskets full of flowers and, of course, for the keenest biker of them all, gentle giant Oscar, with his very cool ‘Bicycle Film Festival’ T-shirt!
Hotel barge Luciole
Cruising since 1976
Phone: 00 44 1625 576880
From USA: 011 44 1625 576880
WhatsApp: 00 33 6 09 92 20 76
Email: info@bargeluciole.com
23 Adlington Road, Bollington
SK10 5JT England
1-2 Quai de la Republique, Auxerre
89000 France
© Hotel Barge Luciole 2026
