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Autumn reflections on the River Yonne at Vincelles

Luciole Blog

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11th - 17th October

The final week of our season seemed to arrive rather suddenly. Perhaps the weather had been so heavenly that we still felt as though it were early September! The Nivernais Canal was looking gloriously calm and peaceful, especially at our pretty mooring in Lucy-sur-Yonne.

Matelot Tom was kept busy with the bikes all week. Cycling in our corner of Burgundy is beautiful, and the smooth towpath beside the canal is perfect for cyclists, especially the more intrepid ones. And yes, we certainly had a few of those aboard this cruise – not forgetting the walkers, too! The expression ‘lost and found’ comes to mind!

Monday was a big day for Captain Charlie – his 50th birthday! Our passengers returned from their tour with Vincent to the Château de Bazoches, all sporting French berets. The crew joined in the fun, and we celebrated together aboard with glasses of bubbly. It was a touching celebration, and one that brought a tear to the eye.

Avallon, where we enjoyed a tasty meal, has a new glow, with iridescent pink and purple floodlighting illuminating its clock tower. The medieval town really did look spectacular. And, of course, the frog sculpture in the square opposite the 12th-century Romanesque church was an essential stopping point! Remarkably, the Church of Saint-Lazare is said to have once housed a relic of Lazarus, the brother of Mary Magdalene.

On our way to Chablis, we drove through golden vineyards and stopped to look down on picturesque Chitry-le-Fort, nestling in the sun-drenched valley below. The varying gradients of the slopes in the Auxerrois region become even more apparent as we drift into autumn, with the changing colours beautifully highlighting the undulating landscape.

Our wine tasting at Domaine Long-Depaquit was as enjoyable as ever. We sipped and savoured in the warm sunshine following a tour of the cellars with Timothée. We were fascinated to learn that the glass wine globe was already filled! With so much glorious weather this year, the winemakers are predicting that the 2026 vintage will be superb and full of flavour. However, with so little rainfall and AOC (Appellation d’Origine Contrôlée) regulations restricting irrigation, it looks as though this year's harvest will be a case of quality rather than quantity.

We returned to our mooring in Vincelles as the sun began slipping behind the village rooftops. There was just time to capture the beautiful reflections of the trees along the opposite bank of the River Yonne. An annual sight we love to see, along with the wild cyclamen at the Château de Sainte-Pallaye – appreciated this year by so many, including our ‘lost and found’ adventurers!

Like two gorgeous butterflies, Ramona and Margeau surprised us that evening in their matching floaty dresses. What a wonderful mother-and-daughter team, with the most infectious smiles and an enthusiasm that was simply contagious!

The Captain’s Dinner on Friday night was a joyful occasion. The table was beautifully set by Poppy and decorated by Sarah with flowers from her garden. Chef Michael presented his delicious foie gras terrine, accompanied by his usual sense of humour. Throughout the evening, the crew took turns joining our passengers at the table, sharing memories and favourite moments from the cruise.

And finally, there was the traditional stroll up onto the Passerelle, the pedestrian bridge across the River Yonne, to cast flowers into the water and make a wish. It felt particularly poignant, being the last of the season. The view from the bridge never ceases to amaze – the stunning Cathedral of Saint-Étienne and Abbey of Saint-Germain create a magnificent skyline, one to dream about long after we have left the city behind and travelled home.

We have cruised with such lovely passengers this season, and the crew felt particularly fortunate to finish on such a high note. It was all the more special to have John Liley joining us for the final cruise, as we celebrated 60 years of hotel barge cruising and 50 years of our own family business.

Hotel barge Luciole

Cruising since 1976

Phone: 00 44 1625 576880
From USA: 011 44 1625 576880
WhatsApp: 00 33 6 09 92 20 76
Email: info@bargeluciole.com

23 Adlington Road, Bollington
SK10 5JT England

1-2 Quai de la Republique, Auxerre
89000 France

© Hotel Barge Luciole 2026

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