26th April - 2nd May
Our passengers arrived from Paris to Auxerre on Sunday and we began the week with a ‘petite croisière’ – a short evening cruise. Captain Charlie and matelot Farouk tossed off the ropes and we cruised through the first lock out of the city, double the size of the Nivernais locks, before turning onto the River Yonne and returning to our mooring beneath blue skies and a gentle warm breeze. It felt simply magical.
This was another week of lovely weather, with a summer warmth that felt more like June. Especially so after leaving the restaurant in Avallon to stroll through the atmospheric streets to our waiting bus and Vincent who drove us home to the Luciole in Accolay.
The crew celebrated being able to cruise once again into the port of Clamecy this week. A fortnight earlier, a sandbank at the lock entrance had blocked our passage and prevented access. After much lobbying of the VNF (Voies Navigables de France), the canal authorities finally delivered a digger to the river’s edge to dredge a channel deep enough for us to pass through safely into port. What a joy it was to return to delightful medieval Clamecy, made even more special by the stunning full moon rising over the River Yonne.
Friday was May Day – the traditional celebration of workers in France when posies of lily of the valley are exchanged. The canals officially close for this holiday, which is why we enjoyed a long languid cruise on Thursday, and had double tours planned for Friday.
In the morning, we visited Vézelay, followed in the afternoon a tour of the Château de Bazoches with Vincent as our excellent guide. There was also a leisurely lunch in the sunshine at La Fortune du Pot, nestled at the foot of the Eternal Hill. It truly felt like lunch among friends – had we really only known each other for five nights?
Bazoches is always a joy to visit with Vincent, whose knowledge is extensive. We meandered through the grounds and impressive château, learning lots. The chateau was once home to France’s great military engineer, Marquis Vauban, Maréchal to Louis XIV. We also paid homage to the mighty man in the small church of Bazoches, that he restored before his death.
After the Captain’s Dinner on Friday evening, it was a delight to stand beside the rushing River Yonne beneath the bright moon and star-filled sky – chatting, laughing, and raising a final toast to the universe for such a wonderful week and a beautiful finale in Clamecy.
Hotel barge Luciole
Cruising since 1976
Phone: 00 44 1625 576880
From USA: 011 44 1625 576880
WhatsApp: 00 33 6 09 92 20 76
Email: info@bargeluciole.com
23 Adlington Road, Bollington
SK10 5JT England
1-2 Quai de la Republique, Auxerre
89000 France
© Hotel Barge Luciole 2026
