12th - 18th October 2025
The last week of our season - Sunday was a beautiful day in Auxerre when Vincent, our tour guide, arrived with passengers at our stunning mooring on the quay. We knew immediately it was going to be a lovely finale cruise to the year, with a wonderful mix of passengers from Australia, the UK and America.
The sun sinks early behind the cathedral at this time of year, but it was warm enough for passengers to sit outside while First Mate Cailan chatted about the week ahead. This time of the season in Auxerre, sitting on deck is particularly spectacular, as it offers the chance to watch the murmuration of hundreds of starlings performing their acrobatic sky dance before pouring, like liquid, into the branches of the city’s golden chestnut and plane trees – so bright in the waning sun.
Meanwhile, in the saloon, our hosts Sarah, James and Karen prepared the evening table, knowing it was the last time in Auxerre. In the galley, Camille created her usual magic – oh, how we crew will miss her creativity and delicious combinations over the winter.
Tuesday was our restaurant night in Saint-Bris, and thanks to Vincent’s “drive home” music, we discovered that John could sing – and boy, could he sing “My Way”! We were all very impressed, and it led to the idea of a Friday night performance. When we arrived back on the Luciole, ideas abounded and John introduced us to an old sea shanty. In remarkable speed, the chorus was suitably adapted and appropriate verses conjured, carefully recorded by our techno queen, Caroline. Such wonderful fun was had by all.
Misty mornings on the canal began each day before the sun broke through in a magical way. The breakfast buffet’s array of freshly prepared fruits brought sunshine and smiles – James’ presentation was especially admired.
Our Thursday visit to Vézelay was as inspiring as ever, as Christopher demonstrated the significance of the 13-knot rope to medieval builders. Christopher and his colleague Hélène joined the Luciole for supper, as they will be travelling to Chicago in November to give a presentation to the French Heritage Society on the Basilica of Vézelay at passengers Jon and Jeanine’s Volo Wine Bar. They will also be giving talks at the Alliance Française in nearby cities. It was a lovely evening, ending with fond goodbyes and cheerful calls of “See you in Chicago!”
Passengers returning from the tour of the Château of Bazoches on Friday were welcomed back by Sarah, who had created a cascade of dahlias straight from her Clamecy house garden. We are know that the autumn frosts could arrive in the blink of an eye, so to enjoy these spectacular flowers and gourds in the saloon was simply precious.
And so, the final Captain’s Dinner arrived in Clamecy. At the end of the sumptuous meal, cheerful French berets were adorned, phones were found, and upon the screens appeared the Clamecy Canal Shanty. Glasses were raised and toasts made by one and all. Captain Charlie and his crew could not have asked for a more delightful finale to the season. Our sincerest thanks to everyone who has cruised with us on the glorious Nivernais Canal this year. Santé – cheers and heartfelt gratitude to you all.
The Ballad of the Luciole
Penny is our gracious host Heave away, haul away Raise a glass to her we toast Bound for Clamecy
Charlie’s at the helm of the barge Heave away, haul away Smile shines and he’s in charge Bound for Clamecy
Cailin is the first mate Heave away, haul away His numbers are always great Bound for Clamecy
Camille is our hero chef Heave away, haul away It’s so good there’s nothing left Bound for Clamecy
Sarah serves the breakfast treat Heave away, haul away With her staff so calm and sweet Bound for Clamecy
Karen oh so bright and breezy Heave away, haul away Makes our life so very easy Bound for Clamecy
James is the cocktail king Heave away, haul away Serves with a wink and grin Bound for Clamecy
Vincent is the driver bold Heave away, haul away All with anecdotes of gold. Bound for Clamecy
Raise a glass my heart is all Heave away, haul away From Auxerre we heard the call Bound for Clamecy
Hotel barge Luciole
Cruising since 1976
Phone: 00 44 1625 576880
From USA: 011 44 1625 576880
Email: info@bargeluciole.com
23 Adlington Road, Bollington
SK10 5JT England
1-2 Quai de la Republique, Auxerre
89000 France
© Hotel Barge Luciole 2025
