29th June - 5th July 2025
It was lovely to welcome passengers aboard in Auxerre for the cruise to Clamecy, with Australian, American, and British guests joining us after our week’s break.
We had some heat this week - thankfully, our air-conditioning system kept the boat nice and cool. John Liley was aboard for the cruise and reminisced about the “old days,” when hotel barges were cooled by running canal and river water over the roof and decks. The Luciole had her first AC system installed back in 1996.
Captain Charlie and matelot Cailan make a wonderful team, and this week John lent a helping hand with the steering as well. When we moored in Accolay - despite the challenge of the long cruise from Mailly-le-Château - Cailan expertly lassoed the bollard as the Luciole came into moor. Hats off to him!
At the restaurant of Le Belle Croix, nestled into the vines on the hillside above Saint-Bris, the evening light across the vineyards was stunning. Vincent, driving the Luciole bus, kindly obliged so that Penny could catch the perfect shot of the Mercedes in the sunset. Much laughter followed, along with fun photos among the vines - a panorama to remember.
In Vézelay, we took our time climbing the hill to visit Christopher, who gave us an enlightening talk about the construction of the Basilica. We then strolled up to the church, entering the cool interior to marvel over the Romanesque and Gothic styles.
On the way down the Eternal Hill, the irresistible lure of the best ice cream shop tempted most of us. We sat on the wall, savouring the sumptuous flavours. At the foot of the hill, near the waiting bus, we were delighted by the sight of fluttering swallowtail butterflies alighting on the arching purple buddleia blooms. Simply beautiful.
The Captain’s Dinner in Clamecy was a joy and at the end of the evening, captains past and present - John and Charlie - shared a quiet drink together. They reflected on the ever-changing canal system and fondly remembering the days when freight barges were a common sight on the Nivernais Canal, before the trains took over the trade.
Ah, the good old days - no AC back then, true - but both old and new mariners would certainly love to see the old ‘péniche’ (working barges) cruising these waters once again. And they drank to that!
Hotel barge Luciole
Cruising since 1976
Phone: 00 44 1625 576880
From USA: 011 44 1625 576880
Email: info@bargeluciole.com
23 Adlington Road, Bollington
SK10 5JT England
1-2 Quai de la Republique, Auxerre
89000 France
© Hotel Barge Luciole 2025
